On the 10th July I left Will to his last couple of days of conference in Rio and flew to Salvador, arriving late in the evening. I was staying in a hostel in the Pelourinho District, which is a UNESCO listed world heritage site. It was dark when I arrived, so it was cool to wake up the next morning to the above view from my window.
I spent the next day wandering around the old town. Salvador is a fascinating place. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1549 and was the first capital of Brazil. It was also the first slave port in the Americas, and to this day, the population is approximately 80% from African descendants.
In the main square I watched some unbelievable dancing. Boy those Brazilians can move!
I also watched some Capoeira being performed, from young boys to grown men. Capoeira is a martial art created by African slaves about 400 years ago, and it was amazing to watch.
Depending on what list you look at, Salvador is around the 25th most dangerous city in the world, but most of the violence is gang or drug related, and happens away from the tourist areas. The old town had a very visible armed police presence, including 1 pair who were permanently stationed about 50m from my hostel! It felt safe enough walking around, although the hostel owner told me not to be out by myself after dusk and not to wear my apple watch outside the hostel. I didn't take the SLR camera out and about with me, and only had my mobile out enough to take some photos. The policemen below seem more absorbed in their phones than what is going on around them!
Speaking of my hostel, I stayed two nights at
Hostel Galeria 13 and it was quite simply, awesome. Friendly knowledgeable staff, great location, a substantial breakfast included that ran until midday, and best of all, unlimited free caipirinhas for an hour each evening! It was very cool shooting the breeze with some other travellers over free cocktails in the courtyard. The person I chatted to most was a Canadian guy who was doing a university exchange in Natal (10th most dangerous city in the world and worst in Brazil!). He told me a few horror stories, and basically said avoid at all costs! He was planning to cut his exchange short... He was an interesting guy with an interest in sustainable farming in third world countries, with a goal of eventually working for the UN. He was super excited because
Malala was in town at the same time as us, and she had been in the same cafe as him. She was one of his heros.
The old town is very picturesque with lots of old colonial buildings. The square below is where Michael Jackson shot his music video for 'They don't care about us', and the blue building on the far left is where he appears on the balcony during the video.
As I was wandering, I came across a movie shoot taking place
I really wouldn't mind if more police in New Zealand looked like this fine fellow below!
Salvador is divided into an upper and lower city by a steep escarpment, with the old city being up top and the port and market being below. To get from the top to bottom I took this plano inclinado, which cost me the equivalent of 6 NZ cents for the ride! There are several of them around the city.
I had a good walk around the port and the lower city, including the market.
The lower city was much more dishevelled and rundown with buildings looking like they were about to crumble down.
To get back up to the old town I took the famous Elevador Lacerda, thought to be the oldest elevator in Brazil. This one cost me a whole 10 NZ cents!
Here are a few more pics from my exploring
The next day I made a beeline for a Havaianas factory shop I had heard about. This place was serious jandal heaven, all for about a quarter of the price that you can buy them in NZ.
I managed to limit myself to 3 pairs...
The Salvador airport is about 30 km away from the old town where I was staying, and the next day I had a flight that departed at 7am. I decided it would be prudent to stay that night much closer to the airport, so I booked a room in a place on the other side of the peninsula in Itapua, only a few km from the airport.
My new place was near the beach, so I went for a nice walk. On the way back I came across a whole bunch of the cute little guys below.
The following day I was up super early and took an Uber to the airport to be there by 5am. Even for domestic flights the Brazilian airports seem pretty strict on checking in 2 hours before a flight.
I fuelled up on a breakfast of coffee and cheese bread (SO so good!) before embarking on two flights and several hours of travel to my next destination: Sao Luis.
